My Favorite Felted Mittens Pattern

photo: LGP

Last winter, I knitted, felted and sold about 20 pairs of felted mittens at pre-holiday craft fairs. I don’t mind making socks on circular needles, but not mittens – guess the hole for the thumb bothers me, I dunno. Anyway, I use the 2-needle pattern below, but I make the mittens much larger than if they weren’t about to be felted.  That means, for a child, I make a small adult size. For men, the bigger medium or largest  size. You have to use your judgement and know your yarn. Use your judgment for women.  For felting, I’ve found that Paton’s 100% wool worsted weight gives me predictable results. It is readily available, inexpensive, knits up beautifully, and comes in many lovely solids and blends. Yarns made specifically for felting shrink too much for this application.

Traditional two needle mittens work up quickly, and suit everyone from child to adult. Use up your yarn stash and knit a pair of mittens in a different color for everyone in the family.
Sizes: small child, medium child, large child, adult

# Materials: #5 and #7 needles
# 200 yards of worsted weight yarn
# 1 stitch holder
# 2 stitch markers
# tapestry needle

Gauge: 5 sts = 1″ on #7 needles

Cuff: With smaller needles, loosely cast on 24(28-32-36)sts. Work *K1, P1,* ribbing until piece measures 2 1/2 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2)”. Change to larger needle.

Hand: Row 1 (right side): K2, inc in next st, K to last 3 sts inc in next st, K1. Row 2 Purl. Continue working in SS until piece measures 1″ (1 1/4, 1 1/2, 2″) from end of ribbing, ending with a P row. For the last 3 sizes only Work 2 more rows. (SS)

Thumb Gusset: Row 1: K12 (12-14-16-18), place marker on needle; inc in each of next 2 sts, place marker on needle: K12 (14-16-18) sts. Row 2: and all even rows Purl. Row 3: K to marker, sl marker, inc in next st; K to st before next marker, inc in next st, sl marker, K to end. Repeat Rows2 and 3 until there are 8 (10-12-14) sts between the markers; end by working Row 2.

Divide for Thumb: K12 (14-16-18), drop marker; K8 (10-12-14)sts for thumb, and then place thumb sts on holder; K 12 (14-16-18) Work even in SS until work measures 4″ (5 1/2 -6-7″) from start of Hand, ending by working a purl row.

Top Shaping: Row 1: *K2, K2tog; rep from* across. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: *K1, K2tog, rep from * Rowb 4: Purl. Row 5: K2tog across; break yarn, leaving 18″ end. Thread yarn into tapestry

needle, run needle through remaining sts. Slip sts off needle, pull yarn up tightly and fasten securely. leave yarn for sewing.

Thumb: Sl sts from holder to needle, purl one row. Work even in SS until thumb measures 1 1/4 ( 1 3/4-2-2 1/4″) ending with a purl row. Next Row: K2 tog, rep across row cut yarn leaving 12″ end finished the same as above. Fold mitten and sew seams.

Your mittens will be comically large and floppy. That’s OK, that’s what you want. Follow your best felting instructions until they shrink to size. I’ve been known to throw wet mittens in the dryer, medium setting, to get to where I want them.

Good luck, happy knitting , let me know how you do!

(updated 2/2/11)

Free Crochet Pattern: Mesh Raglan Pullover

Find this pattern at https://www.lionbrand.com/products/crochet-pattern-mesh-raglan-pullover-1

What a cute summer top. Or even a layering top. Love the color, the loose fit, the yarn. Crochet is not my favorite craft, but I might just have to make this. Size H hook, worsted weight yarn. Looks like it would work up fast, as well.

Bird House Socks

This comfy sock is named Bird House because the columns and eyelets reminded me of trees and birdhouses, and the colors in this variegated yarn, of the leaves and sky. I used TLC Cotton Plus in color #3324 (thistle multi), a lofty, soft cotton/acrylic blend.

This is a 7 stitch repeat pattern. To enlarge or decrease overall size, use larger/smaller needles or increase/decrease number of cast on stitches by 7 .

Magic Loop Pattern:

Approx 150 yards worsted weight yarn

Size 5 circular needles

cast on 35 sts; divide between the needles, half on each.

Cuff:

k2, p2 rib for 1 inch or desired length

Rows 1-3: k5, p2 across

Row 4: *k1, k2 tog, yo, k2* rpt between **across, end p2

Row 5-6: k5, p2 across

Row 7: * k1, p3, k1, p2* rpt between ** across

Row 8-9: k5, p2

Repeat rows 4-9 until cuff measure 7 inches or desired length.

Shape Heel Flap

Knit across 10 sts on first needle, turn.
Row 1 (WS) With empty needle, sl 1 st, purl 9 sts on first needle and 10 sts on 2nd – 20 sts for heel flap. Work back and forth on these sts in rows.
Row 2 * Sl 1, k 1; rep from * across. Rep last 2 rows until a total of 16 rows have been worked, ending with a Row 1.

Turn Heel
Next Row (RS) Sl 1, k 11, skp, k 1, turn.
Next Row Sl 1, p 5, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Next Row Sl 1, k 6, skp, k 1, turn.
Next Row Sl 1, p 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Continue to work in this manner, having 1 more st before decs on each row until 12 sts remain.

Gussets
With first needle, knit across 12 sts of heel, pick up and k 8 sts along side of heel flap, M1 between heel flap and next (instep) needle, with second needle, work 20 sts across instep needle, with 1st needle, M1 between instep needle and heel flap, pick up 8 sts along remaining side of heel flap, work across 12 sts of heel flap.

Dec Rnd K 17, k2tog, k 20, k2tog, k 17.
Knit 1 rnd. Rep last 2 rnds until 40 sts remain.

Foot
Work even in St st until foot measures about 1 1/2″ [4 cm] less than desired length to beg of toes. (7 ½ inches)

Shape Toe
Dec Rnd K 7, skp, k 2, k2tog, k 14, skp, k 2, k2tog, k7.
Knit 1 rnd.
Rep last 2 rnds until 14 sts remain. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Turn sock inside out. Bind off using 3 needle method or Kitchener stitch.

Linda’s Favorite Sock Recipe – All Sizes

lace-sock.jpg

I’m the kind of knitter who tends to fixate upon a certain type of project to the exclusion of others. At times, I get on a sock-knitting tear. I make them in different yarns, weights, and patterns, and have developed the perfect pattern to fit my own feet. For larger or smaller, I simply adapt this basic template.

Pattern:

Magic Loop Socks

Size 4 circular needle.
cast on 42 sts; divide between the needles, half on each. Knit the cuff in the pattern of your choice, to the length desired.

Shape Heel Flap
Knit across 10 sts on first needle, turn.
Row 1 (WS) With empty needle, sl 1 st, purl 9 sts on first needle and 10 sts on 2nd – 20 sts for heel flap. Work back and forth on these sts in rows.
Row 2 * Sl 1, k 1; rep from * across. Rep last 2 rows until a total of 16 rows have been worked, ending with a Row 1.

Turn Heel
Next Row (RS)
Sl 1, k 11, skp, k 1, turn.
Next Row Sl 1, p 5, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Next Row Sl 1, k 6, skp, k 1, turn.
Next Row Sl 1, p 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Continue to work in this manner, having 1 more st before decs on each row until 12 sts remain.

Gussets
With first needle, knit across 12 sts of heel, pick up and k 8 sts along side of heel flap, M1 between heel flap and next (instep) needle, with second needle, work 20 sts across instep needle, with 1st needle, M1 between instep needle and heel flap, pick up 8 sts along remaining side of heel flap, work across 12 sts of heel flap. To decrease, pick up one stitch in every slipped stitch on the side of the heel flap. Resume knitting in the round. Knit across the top, then pick up one stitch from each slipped stitch on the second side of the flap.

Knit across the heel and the stitches you picked up last round, until the last three, then k2tog, k 1. Knit across the instep stitches, till you reach the second side of flap, then k 1, SSK, k across. Do one row plain. Alternate in this way until you have 20 stitches on the heel needle.

Foot

Work even in St st until foot measures about 1 1/2″ [4 cm] less than desired length to beg of toes. (7 ½ inches)

Shape Toe
Dec Rnd
K 7, skp, k 2, k2tog, k 14, skp, k 2, k2tog, k7.
Knit 1 rnd.
Rep last 2 rnds until 14 sts remain. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Turn sock inside out.  Finish off toe with Kitchener stitch.

Wool Dyeing: Copper Penny Blue

This dye substance is not a plant, but it would have been available in one form or other to many colonial home dyers. Known as “Copper Penny Blue”, this is a dye that does not need a separate mordant or even heat. The recipe is simple but it does take from 2-4 weeks for the process to complete itself. Fill a gallon jar to about three inches from the top with non-sudsing ammonia and put in: either 2 cups of pennies, OR a length of copper pipe OR a coil of copper wire. Screw the lid on tightly. Let this mixture sit for a week and watch it become a beautiful blue. At this point remove the copper , with rubber gloves, and put in the pre-wetted fleece to soak; varying the time gives different color effects. Some sources say it is also possible to do this with white vinegar instead of ammonia, but others say vinegar doesn’t work as well. Some recipes say to add a few teaspoons of salt to fix the color.

I’ve used this method several times with different results. One was a pale aqua, and the others various shades of icy green. I think it might be more reliable to use wire or pipe as the amount of copper in pennies these days is so small. Dyeing times, once the dye is made, have ranged from 1 day to 3 weeks of soaking the wool fiber. If you leave the jar in the sun it speeds the process somewhat. I would NOT try heating the mixture on a stove or fire, however.

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My results have always been close to this.

Post revised 8/28/20

Knitting Tips: Kitchener Stitch Cheat Sheet Revised

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A couple of years back I posted a link to Tricksy Knitter’s ever-so-helpful chart showing the steps involved in Kitchener Stitch, which I always use to close the toes of my hand knit socks. I find it much easier to follow than a tutorial. Tried to access the chart today,  only to discover a broken link. Disheartened, I hopped over to search the TK site, and was thrilled to find the chart under a new one. And here it is! Hope you find it as useful as I do. Please let me know if you notice another broken link so I can get back on it ASAP. 

Free Knitting Pattern: His or Her Vintage Pullover

Every once in a while, I browse through the vintage pattern booklets inherited from my mom and MIL. It’s fun to check out the styles from way back then, and some of them, I have to admit, make me laugh out loud. Once in a while, there’s a pattern I might consider making. I’ve used their two needle mitten pattern many times when I don’t feel like knitting in the round.  This sweater  is one of the nice ones, from American Thread Co. Star Book No. 185, Fashions. Probably 1960’s. Click on photo and link to access. I haven’t made it, but if you do, I’d love to see a photo, and with your consent, would post it here.

 

 

Making an 18th Century Hussif (Sewing Kit)

A Housewife, or Hussif, is nothing more than an 18th century sewing kit. Women used them at home, and soldiers used them when serving in the military. A few years back, I made one for myself, and use it mostly at re-enactments and museum programs. It’s a very handy thing to carry, and a very easy thing to make. All you need is some appropriate cloth, and simple directions. Here’s how I make mine.

Materials

Several 1/2 yard lengths of period appropriate cloth, in various patterns. I like checks. Alternatively, you can use a single color, if you prefer.

2 yards of seam binding or bias tape, or you can make your own.

Matching thread and sewing needles.

Plastic cover from a 15 ounce margarine container.

Instructions:

Cut the following:

A. Plain color lining piece – I generally use muslin. Cut to 4″ x 11″.

B. Backing piece: fabric of your choice. Cut to  4″ X 11″.

C and D:  For pockets: Cut two  3 1/2″ x 4″ pieces;

E. Cut one  4″ x 5″ pocket piece

F. Round the tops of the lining and backing, tracing the arc with the margarine lid. If desired, cut a liner piece for the curved top.

Assembling

1. Using a neat slip stitch, hem 1 long side of pieces C and D. The hem should be narrow – approximately 1/8″ folded twice.

2. Hem 1 short side of piece E similarly.

3. Lay the lining (A) right side up with the rounded edge to the top. Place piece E, also right side up, so that its cut edges are even with the rectangular end of the lining. This will become the lowest pocket. Bast E in position, leaving hemmed edge free.

4. Place piece C, right side up, on the lining with its hem touching the hem of piece E. Carefully fold      under 1/4″ of the other end of C. Baste C in place, and carefully slip stitch the folded over side to the lining

5. Place D, right side up, on the lining with its hem toward the rectangular end, and approximately 3″ away from the hemmed end of C. Carefully fold under 1/4 ” of the other end of D. Baste D in place, then slip stitch the folded under edge to the lining.

6. Place the lining/pocket over the cover piece (B), matching up the edges. Baste together. Trim away any excess material from the edges.

7. The binding tape is sewn around the edges, beginning at the center of the rectangular end. You can sew through all the layers at once with small running stitches, or slip stitch each side separately. Be sure to miter the corners, and overlap neatly at the bottom.

8. Attach a length of binding tape or ribbon on the exterior to serve as a tie to hold the folded case closed. One third should lie on top of the case, and 2/3 away from the case.

This case can be folded in a variety of ways, depending on how full it is. You can also roll it. Fill it with needles, threads, pins, and any other small objects that you need for sewing. Show off your beautiful new “hussif”!

Felted Mitten – keep your hands COOL

Felted Oven Mitt

This pattern features an unusual 2 piece construction, knitting separate fronts and backs. I don’t see why it couldn’t be used to make cold weather mittens as well as oven mitts. Makes for good, useful gifts!

Materials:

  • 100% wool worsted weight yarn: 150 yards ecru (MC); 50 yards red (CC)
  • size 11 straight knitting needles
  • stitch markers (M)

Gauge:

11 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in stockinette (St) with yarn doubled

Notes:

Yarn is doubled throughout. Abbreviation M1: Make 1 increase by making a backward loop on right hand needle.

Pattern:

With MC, cast on 19 sts. Work 16 rows St stitch.

Row 17: *K to last 2 sts, K1, M1, K1

Row 18: Purl

Rows 19-30: Rpt rows 17 & 18 (27 sts).

Row 31: K 19, BO 1, K7.

Thumb:

Working on 8 thumb stitches only, work even in St stitch for 3 rows.

Row 4: K1, ssk, K2, K2tog, K2.

Row 5: Purl

Row 6: K1, ssk, K2tog, K2.

BO last 4 sts.

Hand:

With RS facing, attach yarn and work on remaining 19 stitches.

Row 1: purl.

Row 2: K2, place M, beg Chart, place M, K1, M1.

Rows 3-25: Work in St st, following Chart.

Rows 26-28: Remove markers,work in MC.

Row 29: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.

Row 30: purl.

Rows 31-34: Rpt rows 29 and 30.BO remaining 13 sts.

Make second piece, reversing pattern and omitting chart.

Finishing:

With RS together, sew pieces of mitt together and weave in ends.

Optional: Blanket stitch around edges with CC, placing sts 1/2 inch apart and 1/2 inch deep.

Felt using your favorite method.

You can easily knit some matching potholders using chart and sizing as desired.